A Visit to SpaceX in Boca Chica
Just a few years ago, SpaceX’s Starship production and test
facility in Boca Chica Texas was a dirt lot with a water tank. Now it’s one of
the most happening and largest space engineering sites in the world.
I’d seen a SpaceX launch in Florida, seen their factory in
Hawthorne with the Falcon 9 parked outside. Now I wanted to see a Starship. I
was in Texas anyway, so off I went.
We’ve all seen the pictures, but the reality of SpaceX Boca
Chica wasn’t what I expected. I’d assumed those up-close images required a special
access pass or a giant telephoto lens. Not so! All the action is unbelievably
close to the road and SpaceX are super-chill about rubber-necking tourists.
Read on to find out more about the reality of SpaceX Boca
Chica and how to get there.
History
SpaceX (well alright, Elon Musk) weren’t happy with producing
the world’s first reusable booster. The company was founded, not to launch satellites or
even Space Station astronauts, but to get humans properly off-world at last.
And to do that, Musk believes launches need to be like flights –reliable, routine
and above all cheap: much more so even than a Falcon rocket would allow.
The next-gen rocket to achieve Musk’s solar-system
exploration goals was going to be built in LA from carbon fibre. But about five
years ago he seems to have had an epiphany and changed to a much more radical
approach – stainless steel, welded up from sheet in big tents.
Initially, SpaceX started welding up rockets from rolls of
stainless in both Florida and Texas, but the Texas site had far more room and the
whole operation has moved there. I don’t need to tell you about all the drama –
launches and explosions – since.
Getting There
The first thing that will surprise you about a visit to Boca
Chica is how far it is from... well, anywhere really. They call Texas ‘The Big
One’ and now you’re gonna find out why!
Boca Chica itself was a tiny cluster of houses right next to a
Gulf beach close by the Mexican border. It’s now been consumed by
SpaceX and doesn’t have any tourist facilities.
The nearest town, Brownsville about 25 miles inland, is a
large and pleasant place with has plenty of facilities, motels etc. The problem
is getting there. I had been visiting McDonald observatory and Blue Origin in
West Texas – the same side of the same state as Boca Chica, but 700 miles and
10 hours’ drive away!
If you’re super-hardcore you’ll do the drive in a day, but I
split it across two with an overnight stay in San Antonio. Alternatively, you
could fly into San Antonio, Austin or Houston which are ‘just’ 280 miles or 350
miles away respectively. Note that after Corpus Christi the road isn’t (yet) all
freeway and is quite slow.
From Brownsville to Boca Chica is an easy 40
minute drive along Highway 4 from south-central Brownsville. Don’t make
the mistake of heading off to Port Isabel via Highway 48 – there’s no bridge
back south!
Driving to the beach from Brownsville you’ll encounter the ‘Starbase’ production facility first on the left just after
a causeway section that sometimes floods. The launch site is a bit further on
the right just before the road ends at a sandy beach.
Be prepared to stop at a Border Patrol checkpoint on your
return to Brownsville.
Both Starbase and the launch site
are right on the road. No trespassing, but photos from the fence are fine.
Just past Stargate... Starships!
For comparison: Blue Origin’s Texas launch site from the
nearest public road (Highway 54).
What to see
If you’ve been to other rocket launch sites like Cape
Canaveral, or even Blue Origin’s secretive ranch near Van Horn (above, a week
later with the same lens), you might expect bus tours and/or long-distance
views with bino’s. Not here. I hardly used my bino’s or even the telephoto setting
on my phone.
I was astonished by the fact that both production and launch
sites are right on the road.
Starbase and Stargate
Yup, those are the cheesy 90s sci-fi names that the world’s
most famous business leader (!) has given the SpaceX production facility and
its gatehouse. They’re right by the road, but the recently built wall means you
can’t see straight in anymore (except past ‘Stargate’). Still, Starships and Boosters tower in gleaming silver just beyond
it. You can dump your car by the road and walk for photos.
Checkout the huge ‘High Bay’ assembly building and the production
tents.
SpaceX Bar and Tracking Station
Just beachwards of Starbase is the famous SpaceX Tiki bar with its Starship-flaps
awning and where the employees (and maybe the man himself) hang out with cocktails.
A little further on are the twin dishes that SpaceX use to track launches.
There’s offroad parking here. It’s employees only but people
seem to get away with a brief stop for photos.
Awning for the Tika Bar is just a Starship flap!
Launch Site
The launch site allows you to get ludicrously (or should that
be Plaid-ly) close to the Orbital Launch platform and
tower. If there’s a Starship and/or booster there you’ll see it right up close.
Meanwhile, the tank farm and Star Hopper are literally on the road.
Right now, seeing it is as simple as reversing your car onto
the sand opposite the launch site. You’ll be next to all the influencers whose
clips and images you see on Twitter and YouTube. Whilst I was there, NASA SpaceFlight was there taking pictures and some YouTuber was
live streaming.
Having parked, just walk up and down the road, taking snaps
and drinking in this remarkable place. The security guards don’t seem bothered.
Meanwhile, the tanks whoosh steam and there’s a cacophony of bleeping trucks
and power tools all around. Every so often they announce a test over the tannoy. Exciting stuff happens in real time all the time
here.
Boca Chica Beach
For a slightly different view of the Launch Site, just walk
another hundred yards onto the beach, from where the tops of the dunes offer
views from a different angle, but still remarkably close. It’s no wonder they
close the road and beach when they do a static fire or launch – people would
get fried.
The beach is great for a walk (though many drive) with views
of the sea and lots of birdlife.
Park up alongside your favourite YouTube influencers!
Launch site towers over the beach and dunes.
Summary
For fans of
space and rocketry SpaceX Boca Chica is unique and amazing. I’m guessing it won’t
always be as open as this, so do it while you can. As the border patrol guy
said to me, ‘history in the making’!
It’s not
exactly easy to get to, or to combine with an existing holiday or trip, but it’s
well worth the effort.
The
buzz is just palpable. Get down to Boca Chica, see a Starship up close and take
that ‘I woz ‘ere’ selfie to show your grandkids some
day!
